Sawtooth Lace Edging - Machine Knit

Saw-tooth Lace Edging – a hand manipulated lace edge with a slight ruffle

Any yarn, any gauge flatbed machine, any stitch size.

Abbreviations:

      RC:  Row Counter

      R#, L#: refers to needle position on the bed.  The numbers increase as they move away from center zero, as in L3, L2, L1, R1, R2, R3. 

      COR:  Carriage on the right side of the work

      COL: Carriage on the left side of the work

      WP:  Working position.

      NWP: Non Working Position (A)

Cast on needles 1-10 to the right of zero.  Knit 2 rows.  COR,  RC: 000

1.      Transfer the stitches on needles R1 & R2 left 1 position.  Transfer the stitch on R4 and stitch R6 to the left one position.  Needles R3 and R5 will now hold 2 stitches.  Needle configuration is:  ll0l0l0llll  Leave empty needles in WP.  Knit 1 row.

2.      COL.  Put needles R8, 9 and 10 into HOLD position, and set machine for HOLD.  Knit 1 row.

3.      Wrap yarn under needle R8.  Transfer the stitches on needles L1 & R1 left 1 position.  Transfer the stitch on R3 and stitch R5 to the left one position.  Needle configuration is:  ll0l0l0llll1  Leave empty needles in WP.  Knit 1 row.

4.      Put needles R8, 9 and 10 back into working position, and cancel  HOLD.  Knit 1 row.

5.      Transfer the stitches on needles L2 & L1 left 1 position.  Transfer the stitch on R2 and stitch R4 to the left one position.  Leave empty needles in WP.  Needle configuration is:  ll0l0l0lllll1  Knit 1 row.

6.      Put needles R8, 9 and 10 into HOLD position, and set machine for HOLD.  Knit 1 row.

7.      Wrap yarn under needle R8.  Transfer the stitches on needles L3 & L2 left 1 position.  Transfer the stitch on R1 and stitch R3 to the left one position.    Leave empty needles in WP.  Needle configuration is:  ll0l0l0llllll1  Knit 1 row

8.      Put needles R8, 9 and 10 back into working position, and cancel  HOLD.  Knit 1 row.

9.      Transfer the stitches on needles L4 & L3 left 1 position.  Transfer the stitch on L1 and stitch R2 to the left one position.  Leave empty needles in WP.  Needle configuration is:  ll0l0l0lllllll1  Knit 1 row

10.  Put needles R8, 9 and 10 into HOLD position, and set machine for HOLD.  Knit 1 row.

11.  Wrap yarn under needle R8.  Knit 1 row.

12.  Cast off stitches L5-L1.  Move empty needles to NWP.  Cancel HOLD, Knit 1 row.

Repeat this 12-row pattern as often as needed.  Apply this edging by sewing onto the finished project, or hanging the 2 pieces on the machine and binding off together. If  “Sew-as-You-Go” is preferred, remember to only hang stitches from the main project every 4^th row, rather than every second row.  This is because the edge stitches are in hold twice out of every 4 rows.  The short rowing causes the plain edge of the trim to curve, making a nice collar or cuff.  If applied to a straight edge, it will ruffle slightly.

Christmas Pud Tea Cosy

 This is a hybrid teacosy – a little knit and a little crochet. Super-simple, and a great way to use up smaller amounts of yarn. It makes a wonderful Christmas present for the tea-lover, but be sure and keep one for yourself.

100 grams worsted weight wool – dark brown
10 grams fingering weight wool – natural white
Small amounts of green and red fingering weight wool

Knitting needles – 6.0 and 4.0mm
Crochet hook – 4.0mm
Yarn needle


Cosy: make 2 identical pieces
Using 6.0mm knitting needles, cast on 48 stitches.
Row 1-5: work in 1X1 rib.
Row 6: (k3, kfb, p1, k4, p2) 4 times, k4 (stitch count 52)
Row 7: k1, p to last stitch, k1
Row 8: k4, p2 across row, ending with k4
Row 9: repeat row 7
Rows 10-15: repeat rows 7 and 8
Measure cosy against teapot to ensure you have sufficient height. If necessary, add rows here.
Row 16: (first decrease row) (k1, k2tog, k1, p2) 4 times, k1, k2tog, k1 (Stitch count 43)
Row 17 and all remaining odd-numbered rows: repeat row 7
Row 18: (k3, p2tog) 4 times, k3 (Stitch count 35)
Row 20: (k2tog, k1, p1) 4 times, k2tog, k1 k1 (Stitch count 26)
Row 22 (k2, p1)4 times, k2
Row 24: (k2tog, p1) 4 times, k2tog (Stitch count 17)
Row 26: k2tog across row, k1(Stitch count 9)
Row 28: repeat row 26 (Stitch count 5)
Row 30: repeat row 26 (Stitch count 3)
Row 31: p3tog, finish off.


Crocheted “Hard Sauce”
Rnd 1: ch 4 (counts as first dc) 11 dc in first chain. Sl st in top ch to join.
Rnd 2: ch 2, 2 hdc in ea dc around. Sl st in top of chain to join. (24 stitches)
Rnd 3: ch 3, (dc in next stitch, 2 dc in next stitch) around. Sl st in top of chain to join. (36 stitches)
Rnd 4: ch 2, (hdc in ea of next 2 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch) around. Sl st in top of chain to join to join. (48 stitches)
Rnd 5: ch 3, (dc in ea of next 3 stitches, 2 dc in next stitch) around. Sl st in top of chain to join. (60 stitches)
Rnd 6: ch 2, (hdc in ea of next 4 stitches, 2 hdc in next stitch) around. Sl st in top of chain to join to join. (72 stitches)

If you wish to have a larger serving of hard sauce, continue rounds following the above pattern, each round being 12 stitches larger than the last.


Eging:
*Ch 1. Skip the next 2 stitches.
In the following stitch, work 2dc, 1tc, 1dtc, 1tc, 2dc.
Skip the next 2 stitches.* repeat around, and join with a sl st in the first sc. End with a long tail, which will be used to sew the “hard sauce” to the “pudding”


Holly:
Please refer to the excellent “Knitted Holly Leaves” pattern designed by Lesley Arnold-Hopkins at Suite101.com .  Work with a doubled strand of fingering weight wool and leave long tails which will be used to sew the holly to the top of your cosy.

Assembly:
Exact placement of the seams will vary based on the location and shape of your teapot’s handle and spout. With right sides together, whip stitch the 2 cosy pieces together from “A” to “B”. Cut yarn, weave in ends. Now sew from “C” to “D”. Cut yarn, weave in ends. Now sew from “E” to “F”. Cut yarn, weave in ends. Optional: You may, if desired, run a strand of elastic cording through the ribbing on the inside for a more snug fit.

Turn the cosy right side out. Lay the “Hard Sauce on the top of the cosy, and stitch the ‘sauce’ to the ‘pudding’ through the edging row. Place the holly leaves as indicated in the photo, and sew in place at top and bottom of each leaf. I worked the holly berries in french knots with 8 strands of fingering weight wool, through all layers – leaf, sauce, and pudding. Weave in all ends and put the kettle on.

Knitting Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
kfb – increase one by knitting in the front and back of the stitch.
k2tog = knit 2 together
p3tog = purl 3 together.


Crochet Abbreviations: click image to see full table

“Christmas Pud” Teacosy © Jan 2010 by Hilary Detmers. All rights reserved. No portion of this pattern may be reproduced in any form or by any means. It is intended for non-commercial use only.

Knitted Unterhosen / Leggings

Knitted Unterhosen, Version 1.0 2/22/2009 © Hilary Detmers 2009

These unterhosen are great knitted from sock wool. They keep you warm all winter and
go right in the washing machine. The footless design means you don’t have to launder as
often as footed tights would require.
This pattern is written for a flatbed standard gauge machine with no ribber. Model used
was a Brother KH800.


Materials:
250-400 grams sock wool, depending on your size. Size 3X requires about 375 grams.
1 piece of ½” elastic long enough to fit your waist snugly but comfortably
Yarn needle
2 large safety pins
Sewing needle and thread


Measurements - Click to view full measurement chart

Take body measurements as listed above. For Rise, sit on a hard chair and measure from
chair to waist at the side. This garment will be made with 10% negative ease for a good
fit under slacks.


Work a test swatch to determine the gauge at which you will be working. On my Brother
KH800 I like Tension Dial 7 for the body of the garment. Wash the gauge swatch and
measure. Multiply your smaller set of measurements by the gauge to determine number of stitches/rows.

Make 2 identical pieces.


Tension Dial 5.1, or as needed
Cast on every other needle for “A” measurement. Work 1X1 Mock Rib for 4”. Pull
forward OOW needles and hang hem on the empty needles.
Tension Dial 7, or as neededKnit stockinette, increasing 1 stitch each side every 4th row until Thigh Width stitch count has been achieved. Knit straight until row count for Inseam has been reached.
BO 14 stitches at the beginning or each of the next 2 rows. Knit straight until the measurement “R” has been reached.
Tension Dial 5.1, or as needed
Transfer every other stitch to the adjacent needle. Work 1X1 Mock Rib for 4”. Pull forward OOW needles and hang hem on the empty needles. Bind off.


Make second leg identical to the first.

Assembly:
Use a yarn needle and the same yarn used to knit the garment to sew it together. Using Mattress Stitch, from right side, stitch each leg from the ankle to the crotch bindoff.
Turn one leg inside out. Leave the other leg right side out, and insert it into the inside-out
leg. The legs will now be right sides together. Line up the inseams and pin. Pin at each
waist ribbing.
Starting at one side, sew the outsides of the ribbing together. Then sew the insides of the

ribbing. It is important to sew this ribbing carefully so you have an open tube for the elastic to run through. Using whipstitch, sew the seam from the front waistband down to the pin at the crotch, and up the back side to the other waistband. Sew the outsides of the second ribbing together.

Attach a large safety pin to one end of the elastic. Slip this into the waist ribbing. Pin the

other end of the elastic to the garment. Slide the first pin thru the waist ribbing tunnel

until it comes out again at the back waist. Unpin the other end and sew the 2 ends of elastic to each other securely with the sewing thread and fine needle. Sew the inside ribbing closed.

Abbreviations:
OOW: Out of Work
BO: Bind Off

Knitted Unterhosen, Version 1.0 2/22/2009 © Hilary Detmers 2009

Crocodile Scarf for Standard Gauge Knitting Machine

Design copyright by Hilary Detmers, December 2009, all rights reserved.

Exact yarn and machine tension are not critical on this project, as long as you work a tension that produces a fabric texture and drape pleasing to you. I used 2 ends of an unlabeled fuzzy laceweight acrylic cone yarn. I varied the sizes of three scarves simply by changing the tension dial – Tension 5, 7 and 10.

Notions:
4.0mm crochet hook
2 plastic “Pony beads”
Yarn needle

Tuck Pattern:
Leave 2 needles at each edge in working position at all times. At times this will mean reducing the tuck pattern by one repeat across the width of the sca
Set carriage to Hold (HCL2)
Starting with 3rd needle from the left edge, pull every 6th needle to hold position.
Knit 4 rows
Set carriage to Plain Kitting (HCL3)
Knit 2 rows
Set carriage to Hold (HCL2)
Starting with 6th needle from the left edge, pull every 6th needle to hold position.
Knit 4 rows
Set carriage to Plain Kitting (HCL3)
Knit 2 rows

Head:
Starting at the mouth, cast on 13 stitches.
MT: Knit 6 rows
Transfer every 2nd stitch to adjacent needle, keeping empty needles in working position.
TD: 10 Knit 1 row.
MT: Knit 6 rows, hang hem.
TD: 10 Knit 1 row.
MT: Knit I pattern (above), and at the same time, increase one stitch each side of work until scarf is 37 stitches wide. On the last increase row, increase one additional stitch for a total of 38 stitches wide.
Knit in pattern straight for 36 rows.


Neck shaping:
Decrease one stitch each side every second row, 6 times.
Increase one stitch each side every second row, 6 times.
You should once again be working on 38 stitches.


Body:
Knit in pattern straight until scarf is just about as long as the child is tall, or to 5-6 inches short of the desired finished length.

Tail decrease:
Still working in pattern, decrease one stitch each side every 6th row, until only 5 stitches remain. Bind off.

Non-curl edging:

Using about a 4.0mm crochet hook, and double the weight of yarn you worked the scarf with (if you worked the scarf with 2 ends, work the crochet with 4 ends) crochet slip stitch on the wrong side of the knitting, just in from the edge, from the mouth, all along down the body to the tail, and back to the other side of the mouth. Repeat with a second row just inside this first row. This will help prevent curling.

Pin scarf out on blocking board. Lightly and gently steam the entire scarf, being very careful to not flatten the texture. On the edges only you may, if you choose, apply enough steam and heat to ‘kill the acrylic’ to further prevent curling. Allow to dry completely.


Finishing


Using photo as placement guide, sew beads securely to scarf. Tan or pale yellow beads are very authentic, but glow-in-the-dark are very effective. Dark red are also popular.

Eyelids: (make 2)


Ch 9. Leaving long ends, DC in 3rd chain from the hook (This CH3 counts as first DC) and each subsequent chain. Finish off. You will notice that the chain edge is tighter, and the top of the DCs are flared out a bit. Thread a needle onto the starting end of the thread, and sew the chain edge of an eyelid to one side of the bead. Carry the chain edge up and over the bead, halfway covering it. Slip the needle thru the bead, and sew the other end of the chain to the other side of the bead. Finish off. Thread the ending tail of yarn of this piece onto the needle, and loosely sew the top of the DC edge to the scar behind the eye. You want to keep this loose and bumpy. Finish off.   Repeat for second eye.

Nostrils: (make 2)


Ch 12. Leaving long ends, DC in 3rd chain from the hook (This CH3 counts as first DC) and each subsequent chain. Finish off. You will notice that the chain edge is tighter, and the top of the DCs are flared out a bit.


Thread the ending tail of yarn of one nostril onto the needle. Sew the last DC to the first one, making a loop. Referring to photo for placement, sew this open loop at the bottom only to the scarf. Finish off. Thread the beginning tail of this nostril onto the needle. Gather the beginning chain stitches together tightly to close the back of the nostril, and sew firmly to the scarf. Repeat for 2nd nostril.


You’re finished!! Now it’s time to go make a small boy happy!

Abbreviations used:
MT: Main Tension
TD: Tension Dial
CH – chain stitch (crochet)
DC – Double Crochet (Crochet) in American Terminology. Same as Treble Crochet in British terminology.

Sunflower Shopping Bag

Sunflower Shopping Bag



This pattern is copyright April 2007 by Hilary Detmers.


Do not post it on your website, distribute it or sell it as your own work.


I used to live in Germany, where the Green Party for several years formed part of the governing coalition. This has had a significant impact on the country's recycling laws and attitudes. One example is clear to see when grocery shopping. Folks always keep their own reusable bags or crates in the car to be available for groceries and other shopping. While plastic grocery bags are available, you have to pay extra for each one you need. It can be tough for Americans new in the country to remember to bring their bags with them. The Sunflower Shopping Bag with its bright and cheery flower is a reminder to grab your bag when you go. The addition of a key ring hook makes it easy to hang on the back of the seat, in the trunk, or wherever you need it to be sure not to forget.




This is a good project to use up ends of crochet thread. I really wanted to use up some partial balls of white thread, rather than driving into the nearest city and purchasing the colors I wanted. What to do? So, I went to the kitchen to make a cup of tea and mull it over. AHA!! I raided the spice rack and pulled out my curry powder! Then I noticed that my husband hadn't finished up all of the coffee that morning. My second color! Dyeing with natural ingredients is a MUCH better alternative than driving 30 miles to buy more thread! And the entire residue goes in the compost, too. It's little decisions like this which add up to make a big difference over the long run.


Materials
Hunter Green Caron "Grandma's Best" #10 cotton crochet thread - 550 yards
White Aunt Lydia #10 crochet cotton - 180 yards divided and dyed as in "NOTES" below,
OR Yellow #10 Crochet Thread - 120 yards,
And Brown #10 Crochet Thread - 60 yards
US A-4 / 2.0 mm crochet hook, US 8 / 1.5 mm crochet hook
Yarn needle
1 Elastic Ponytail Holder
2 Stitch Markers
1 key ring hook - optional


Finished Size
The flower is 8" in diameter. The pouch, when filled is 4.5" in diameter and 2" thick. The bag, including handles, is about 20" deep, but will stretch significantly when filled.


Gauge  is unimportant for this project.


Notes
Dyeing the thread is OPTIONAL. You can use purchased green, brown and yellow threads.
How to dye white thread for the sunflower:

Materials
1 Coffee filter
2 TB Curry Powder or Turmeric for yellow
1/2 water
1/2 cup leftover coffee or 1 tsp instant coffee granules for brown
Measure the white thread into 2 hanks, one of 120 yards, and one of 60 yards.
Be careful not to splash any of the dye mixture on your clothing.
Place the curry powder or turmeric in the coffee filter, close the top tightly with a rubber band. Place in a 2-cup glass bowl with 1/2 cup water. Microwave on high till the water boils. Turn the spice bag over, leave to sit 10 minutes.


Place the coffee in a separate glass bowl.


Place the larger hank of cotton in the bowl with the curry powder, and the smaller hank in the bowl with the coffee. If solid color is desired, completely immerse the cotton, adding more water as necessary. If a variegated color is desired, submerge 1/2 to 3/4 of the cotton in the water. Microwave till boiling, leave to cool. If deeper color is desired, add more spice/coffee, as required.


Rinse hanks well, hang to dry. Wind into balls when completely dry.


Alternate brown dyeing method: Crochet the Pouch Front piece in white thread. Spray with warm water, sprinkle instant coffee over the damp cotton. Press the coffee into the cotton. Spray again and leave 20 minutes. Rinse well


Pattern

Pouch Back:
Row 1: With green thread and smaller hook, loosely work 70 sc over the ponytail holder. Making sure the stitches are not twisted, distribute evenly around the ponytail older and join with a slip stitch. Place a stitch marker. Do not join rows; work continuously moving the stitch marker at the completion of each row.


Row 2: work one sc in each stitch of the previous row. 70 stitches.


Row 3: Work 1 hdc. Work one dc in each remaining stitch around: 70 stitches.


Row 4: *Work 2 dc in next stitch (increase made), dc in each of the next 9 stitches, repeat around from *. 77 stitches


Row 5: *Work 2 dc in next stitch (increase made), dc in each of the next 10 stitches, repeat around from *. 84 stitches


Row 6: *Work 2 dc in next stitch (increase made), dc in each of the next 11 stitches, repeat around from *. 91 stitches


Row 7: *Work 2 dc in next stitch (increase made), dc in each of the next 12 stitches, repeat around from * to within 3 stitches of the end of the round. Work 1 hdc, 1 sc, 1slip stitch. Fasten off. Weave in ends. 98 stitches


Special Stitch Pattern
This pattern replicates the sunflower seed pattern on the Pouch Front with triple crochet bobbles in a ground of single crochet. There are no 'build-up' chains between the single crochet and the triple crochet stitches. This causes the triple crochets to 'squish down' and make small bobbles, giving the Pouch Front some texture.

Pouch Front:
Row 1: With brown thread and larger hook, ch 4 loosely. Join into a ring with a slip stitch. ch1, work 7 sc into the ring. Place a stitch marker. Do not join rows; work continuously moving the stitch marker at the completion of each row.


Row 2: Work 2 sc in each stitch of the previous row (7 increases made). 14 stitches.


Row 3: *Work one tr and one sc in the next stitch. (increase made) Work 1 sc in the next stitch. Repeat from * around to marker. 21 stitches


Row 4: Work 1 sc in the next stitch. *Work one tr and one sc in the next stitch. (increase made) (increase made) Work 1 sc in each of the next 2 stitches. Repeat from * around to marker. 28 stitches.


Row 5: Work 1 sc in each of the next 2 stitches. *Work one tr and one sc in the next stitch. (increase made) Work 1 sc in each of the next 3 stitches. Repeat from * around to marker. 35 stitches.


Row 6: Work 1 sc in each of the next 3 stitches. *Work one tr and one sc in the next stitch. (increase made) Work 1 sc, 1 tr, 2 sc over the next 4 stitches. Repeat from * around to marker. 42 stitches.


Row 7: Tr in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches. *Work one tr and one sc in the next stitch. (increase made) Work 2 sc, 1 tr, 2 sc over the next 5 stitches. Repeat from * around to marker. 49 stitches.


Row 8: Sc, tr. Work 1sc in each of the next 3 stitches. *Work one tr and one sc in the next stitch. (increase made) Work 3 sc, 1 tr, 2 sc over the next 6 stitches. Repeat from * around to marker. 56 stitches.


Row 9: 2sc, tr. Work 1sc in each of the next 3 stitches. *Work one tr and one sc in the next stitch. (increase made) Work 1 sc, 1 tr, 2 sc, 1 tr, 2 sc over the next 7 stitches. Repeat from * around to marker. 63 stitches.


Row 10: Tr, 2sc, tr over the next 4 stitches. Work 1sc in each of the next 3 stitches. *Work one tr and one sc in the next stitch. (increase made) Work 2 sc, 1 tr, 2 sc, 1 tr, 2 sc over the next 8 stitches. Repeat from * around to marker. 70 stitches.


Row 11: Hdc in the next stitch. *Work 2 dc in the next stitch (increase made) Work 1 dc in each of the next 9 stitches. Repeat from * to the marker. 77 stitches


Row 12: *Work 2 dc in next stitch (increase made), dc in each of the next 10 stitches, repeat around from *. 84 stitches


Row 13: *Work 2 dc in next stitch (increase made), dc in each of the next 11 stitches, repeat around from *. 91 stitches


Row 14: *Work 2 dc in next stitch (increase made), dc in each of the next 12 stitches, repeat around from * to within 3 stitches of the end of the round. Work 1 hdc, 1 sc, 1slip stitch. Fasten off, weave in ends. 98 Stitches


If you need to dye the front panel brown, do so now. Rinse well and let dry thoroughly.

Large Petals:


Row 1: With yellow thread, and smaller hook, work a slip stitch around the post of the first dc in row 13 on the right side of the Pouch Front. Working on the surface of the pouch front, Ch1, work a sc around the post of each of the next 12 dc stitches. Ch2, turn. 13 stitches.


Row 2: Dc in each stitch across. Ch2, turn. 13 stitches.


Row 3: Dc2tog (decrease made) dc across the row to the last 2 stitches. Dc2tog (decrease made). Ch2, turn. 11 stitches.


Row 4: Dc2tog (decrease made) dc across the row to the last 2 stitches. Dc2tog (decrease made). Ch2, turn. 9 stitches


Row 5: Dc2tog (decrease made) dc across the row to the last 2 stitches. Dc2tog (decrease made). Ch2, turn. 7 stitches


Row 6: Dc2tog (decrease made) dc across the row to the last 2 stitches. Dc2tog (decrease made). Ch2, turn. 5 stitches


Row 7: Dc2tog (decrease made) dc across the row to the last 2 stitches. Dc2tog (decrease made). Ch2, turn. 3 stitches


Row 8: Yo, Insert hook in first stitch and pull a loop through; Insert hook in second stitch and pull a loop through; Insert hook in last stitch and pull a loop through. Yo and draw through all loops on hook. Finish off and weave in end.


Starting in the next DC, repeat rows 1-8 around for 6 more petals.


Small Petals:


Row 1: Attach thread around to post of any stitch in Row 12. *Ch 10. Work a slip stitch in the 2nd ch from hook. Working down the chain, sc2, dc3, tr 3. Skip 3 dc on the Pouch Front, slip stitch around the post of the next dc. Repeat from * around, deliberately making some of the chains looser, and some tighter, to alter the sizes of the petals slightly. Slip stitch in first stitch. 21 petals


Row 2: slip stitch down to the Row 11 on the Pouch Front and repeat Petal Row 1. Fasten off, weave in ends. 19 petals.





Bag:


Note: Bag is worked with 2 strands of thread held together from this point on, using the larger crochet hook.


Don't worry if the Pouch Front and Pouch Back are not the exact same diameter. This is not critical, as long as they both have 98 stitches in the final round.

Row 1: (Joining row) Hold the right sides facing each other, join the Pouch Front and Pouch Back together working through both thicknesses, and being careful not to catch the petals in your work. Attach the DOUBLED thread to any dc. Ch 1, sc in the same stitch. *Ch 5, skip the next dc, sc in the next dc. Repeat from *, ending with ch 3, dc in the first sc to form the last loop. 49 loops.


Row 2: ch1, sc in the loop just formed. Place a stitch marker in this sc. *Ch 5, sc in the next loop. Repeat from *, ending with ch 3, dc in the first sc to form the last loop. 49 loops.


Row 3: ch1, sc in the loop just formed. Move the stitch marker to this sc. *Ch 6, sc in the next loop. Repeat from *, ending with ch 3, trc in the first sc to form the last loop. 49 loops.


Rows 4-30: Repeat row 3.


Row 31: *2 sc into the next loop. Repeat from * to the first loop. Sc, join to first sc with a slip stitch. 98 stitches.


Row 32: Ch1, sc in the same stitch. Sc in each stitch around. 98 stitches.


Handles:

From the stitch marker, count around Row 32 49 stitches. Place the second stitch marker. Return to the working loop at the first stitch marker. Ch 50. Skip 24 stitches in Row 32, sc in each of the next 2 stitches. Ch 50. Sc in the stitch after the first handle chain. Sc in the next stitch. Ch 13. Holding the 2 long chains together, work 25 sc over both chains. Ch 13, sc in the next free stitch on row 32. Finish off, weave in ends.

Re-attach thread at second stitch marker, and work a second handle in the same manner.

Finishing Instructions

Tuck the shopping bag into the pouch. Attach key ring into one of the stitches that joins the Pouch Front to the Pouch Back.


Designer Bio


I've been crocheting left-handed for over 35 years. I also knit by hand and machine, sew, do needlepoint and embroidery and rug making. I'll take on just about anything involving fibers except tatting! When I'm not working with some kind of hook or needle, I'm likely to be found traveling somewhere in Europe, where I've lived the past several years.


Creative Commons License
Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works
This pattern is copyright April 2007 by Hilary Detmers. Do not post it on your website, distribute it or sell it as your own work.

Moving the Blog

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